Blog 4 & 5

Blog 4

Shambles, disorganised mayhem, sweltering heat, Maputo on a Saturday morning, as well as a credit card that does not work as I forgot to tell the card authorities where I was travelling. Could try my English Card, but if I can lose my car in London, how am I expected to remember my PIN?

One can not help but feel a certain amount of despair for Africa. Is there any hope for Africa? I am really battling to see it. We have now covered 3500kms or so since leaving Cape Town, and the further we travel the further we seem to be sinking into an abyss of chaos.

Swaziland was OK, friendly people, not very populated in the areas through which we travelled, the low land areas in the East. However one can’t help but notice that all the projects you come across appear to be the work of some outside aid company. Then you have a king who buys a private plane for $45 million, which creates a bit of a stir with the funding organisations especially the Americans, who threaten to withdraw aid, but don’t. But who made the plane in the first place? Americans!

We then spend the night at Hlane Royal National Park, a little Game Reserve in the East of Swaziland and who should be staying there but a group of 20 year olds from Australia and New Zealand who through the chewing gum  and face makeup said they were on a conservation programme in Southern Africa. God help me where do they find these people and who the hell is paying for it?

Then you get to Mozambique. Where the whole country appears to be in the process of Chinese colonization. Not only have they given the Chinese the right to decimate all their fishing grounds and remove all their hard woods, but

we are told by Denis, who runs the most amenable Casa Lisa Lodge 60 kms out of Maputo that the Chinese authorities are emptying the gaols of their high security prisoners by sending them as labourers to Mozambique on the understanding that they will never be allowed back to China! A threat that I imagine really worries the Chinese Mafia and Triads who would be quite incapable of creating duplicate passports!

So if the incumbent President, Mr Armando Guebuza continues to rule his fiefdom as he is currently doing, the future for Mozambique is somewhat questionable, at least they will get on with the Nigerians in Hilbrow!

It was fun chatting to Denis, at Casa Lisa. He is married to a local lady and jointly ran a restaurant in Pemba, so he was a mine of information on what not to do and where to buy, and knows all the country intimately. He asked whether we had considered flying from Maputo to Pemba?! He also knew Brenda, the owner of the Pemba Bush and Dive Camp, who he described as “a few sandwiches’ short of a picnic” then proceeded to say that we would get on well with her!

It is a long way to Pemba and I am pleased that the boys are flying there for Ewa’s birthday and not driving as suggested by yours truly.

When we arrived in India in 1975, there were signs that said “Don’t give to Beggars, give to one create 10”. Africa is desperate and it really hits you travelling through it. We should lobby for the removal of all unsustainable aid projects and Aid Organisations. Tough Love approach as recommended for our children, but this will never happen as it is the “helpers” who benefit most not the “helped”.  I really see very little hope, but there again I feel the same way about Americans at the other end of the scale.

It took us two and a half hours to travel the 15kms on the EN1 out of Maputo passed the massive Stadium built by the Chinese to host the African Games in June 2010. Maybe the Games are run by friends of Seb Blatter! The Chinese are widening the EN1 to the stadium. The 15 km traffic queue causes very little delay to the taxis and 20% of the road users who simply drive through any opening that presents itself. Pavements are good, the oncoming traffic is no deterrent their lane is fine! Lord of the Flies is happening in front of our eyes.

We were really please to arrive at Casa Lisa, sweaty, hot, parched and tense!

Being greeted by two Border Collies was a wonderful reminder of home.

Leaving Casa Lisa the border Collies, Denis and a very pleasant Belgium couple, we are told of a camp site to visit in Chidenguele 260 kms from Maputo. We thought we would stop and have a quick look at the place as it only took about 3 hours to get there. The EN1 to the turnoff was superb and the 5km dirt road to the place was perfect until the last 200m. It turned into a sandpit and we got stuck! Ewa really does not push nearly as hard as she used to push in her youth, so we had to call Dannie who pulled us out and we felt it would be rude to turn down his invitation to stay. Would you argue with Danie (picture attached)? The place is delightful. Fantastic facilities and we spent the afternoon having our first swim in a warm sea…no gain without pain.

Fire time, must cook the meat from Dave’s butchery in Hluhluwe. Unbelievable meat at amazing prices. Biltong at R134/kilo!

Blog 5

You can’t rush, first of all the Kombi is not capable of rushing. Secondly even if it could rush, the roads off the main EN1 would prevent it from doing so. Thirdly it would be a bit pointless coming all this way and not exploring all that this country has to offer, especially in the southern region South of Vilanculos as you travel within striking distance of the sea after that the road goes inland and we only meet up with the coast again at Pemba, which is about 2000 kms away.

Chidenguele, was really enjoyable and it was interesting chatting to Danie, who moved to Chidenguele seven years ago. While talking to him you realise how tough the Afrikaans boer is. He is big, strong and extremely firm with his staff, but also there was a mutual respect and everyone knows exactly where they stand.  Behind the firmness you sense a soft compassionate soul. The contrast in management styles and philosophies of David at Bulungula and Danie at Chidenguele are stark . One thing is for sure, I wouldn’t mess with the Dannie’s of this world.

Inhambane lies on a sort of Cape with the Ponta de Linga Linga Bay,  on one side and the Indian Ocean on the other. Actually there are a number of protrusions into the bay and we were heading for The Barra Reef Camp Site which was meant to be nearly at the end of the furthest protrusion! We finally got to where it was meant to be, but unfortunately the value of the land has clearly gone beyond the income generated by a camp site, it has been carved up to accommodate a number of houses which would not be out of place at Silvermine Golf Estate, and I am sure there is a pretty good chance that that is exactly who currently owns them.

Not to be deterred my navigator suggested that we proceed to the end of the protrusion. Now I have not been in Mozambique very long, but one thing I have noticed is that if you are driving a two wheel drive Kombi, the further you go down panicles the less chance you have of getting to the end. However, on the instructions from Dannie, if I let my tyre pressure down to 1.1 bar I can take a Kombi anywhere! I do as instructed but the problem is that I can’t see the road, it has petered out into a pond and there appears to only be beach on the other side. As luck would have it, a very pleasant fellow appears out of the blue with his 4*4 bakkie. I ask him if I am facing in the general direction of White Sands? “Yes” he says, “but follow me as that pond is quite deep!”

I once again did as told and followed the Good Samaritan around the pond(s) onto the beach on the other side. The GS then signals that he is turning off to the right and I have to go it alone to the left. I had a funny sort of feeling as there was very little to be seen to the left but pressed on regardless fearing nothing as I now was armed with flat tyres. There appeared a sun bleached sign on which I just managed to see a tent sign. I had no option but to take the gap through the dunes. We made it over the palm leaves into what we thought was White Sands Camp Site, we were at Jan and Joey’s Areia Branca Lodge!

One thing was for sure that was as far as we were going. A welcoming Barraca for not a great deal of money sheltered us against the thunderous onslaught of the rainy season, not before we had had a wonderful walk and swim in the tepid sea and a couple of cold beers chatting to Jan and Joey who we learnt had owned White Sands, which was next door! Lovely people who left Rustenberg then jobs in Secunda to run Areia Branca Lodge.

The rain was spectacular and I have no doubt that if they continue for much longer Joey & Jan will not be getting many guests driving Kombi’s.

We drove into Inhambane where I tried once more to access money from an ATM, with out success. A call to my Credit Card Company revealed my credit card had now been blocked and that the only way that I could unblock it would be to take my card and myself to my branch in Claremont! I tried to explain that that would be a little bit difficult and informed him that to do that I would have to pay the petrol attendant who was now getting a little angry and was speaking to me in a language I did not understand. The CCC had no suggestions….. there was nothing written in the little book that dealt with that situation. He could block the card but could not unblock it!! What happened to bank managers who greeted you because you paid them exorbitant fees? Someone with discretion?

We left Inhambane angry if I had caught the bloke I saw trying the locks of the Kombi I would have killed him!

When we left Durban we were told by Dr Bill that if we get a chance we should try and visit Pomene. Dr Bill also said that the road was fine and we should easily make it in the Kombi with the by now customary flat tyres!

Dr Bill I would like to have some of what you were smoking, getting to Pomene is a 56 km dirt road that would give any well acquainted 4*4 driver stress. I don’t know how, but as with flat tyres and a touch of speed we managed to cover 54kms, two short of our final destination! The “middle mannetjie” was just too high! Jacking up the car and the use of various flotsam and jetsam off the beach, saw us into the Lodge where everything bottomed out, so there the Kombi stayed the night while we took up very comfortable lodgings in Barraca No 3!

Kirsten, the Lodge hostess, was unbelievably welcoming and informed us that they never had a 2*4 vehicle at the lodge before, and the week before a couple got stuck in their 4*4 and had to walk the 14km to get help from the lodge.

Pomene Lodge is spectacular, it sits on a peninsula with a lagoon on one side and the warm Indian Ocean on the other. The familiar palm trees and squeaky white beaches. If one has to be stranded I could think of worse places to be! Snorkelled all morning, 40 winks under the palms, painting, writing and prawns for dinner is a hell of a way to “slum it”. Interestingly, ownership of the land be it leasehold or rent, does not include the palm trees, only the shade underneath! The reason for this is that during the war years the thing that kept may people alive was the coconut and they are making sure that should anything happen again they have a secure food source.

We were told that a Lodge vehicle would accompany us out at 8.00am. That should have been the case but a quick tow to the gate, all of 100m took half an hour, so it was decided that it would be better to wait for the other Landcruiser which had gone to fetch diesel, as our appointed vehicle had to fetch new arrivals from the landing strip, where ever that may be and at 100m per half hour he would most probably not make the appointed rendezvous with the incoming guests.

So we wait, forced to stay in Paradise! Finally got through to a higher being at the bank and seemed to have found a solution for getting money out, which is one good thing our prolonged stay has accomplished. Better go and paint a picture!  

We are out and way! It was an epic drive which will be described in next blog, also comments from my wife on previous writings…..she says I downplay thing too much, so have decided that I will write and she can then add her wisdom , maybe in Red ! I think it is called bickering!

BULLSHIT!

He makes it sound so easy and fun.

Meantime reality is …..while he is playing intrepid Dr. Livingstone in khaki shorts soldiering on into the wilds sitting behind the wheel……..I have to jump out all the time, dig us out of the sand-dunes and push us back onto the “road”…….I know I’ve said lifting heavy weights help osteoporosis……but my osteoporosis isn’t that bad and next trip I’m going insist bringing a bigger spade!

Then when the trusty steed just can’t make it anymore I am despatched into unknown territory bundubashing the next 2 kms to find Pomene Camp.

Luckily they felt sorry for me and offered to tow us out on the way back. Thankfully Dr.Livingstone swallowed his pride and accepted.

As I see from above he does describe it as an epic drive, which in fact was very much assisted by St.Christopher watching over us……in fact he has been very busy with us this trip so far.

Must dash now to do the washing, cooking, checking tyre pressures etc.etc.

Never Happy. They just don't make them like they used too! Danie wouldn't stand for it !