Scorpians and things

Blog 3

The trouble with going to Heaven, is it is quite hard to return! It took two and a half hours to cover the 80kms back to the main road. It is such a relief when your teeth stop chattering, however even on the good tar road you can not stop concentrating for a moment. The wandering sheep, goats, cattle and people are one thing. It is the taxis that are a real worry. First of all it is not only the speed they travel loaded the way they are and the condition of most of the vehicles that is really scary, it is the way they overtake. There is absolutely no regard for white lines and blind rises. You really do have to assume that there is a very good chance that you will be heading straight at a speeding taxi every time you come over a rise, that way you can drive accordingly and are not completely overawed when such an event does happen.

Once you get accustomed to the driving you then have to manage driving through the main towns of Butterworth, Dutywa and Mthatha. It would appear that it does not matter what day you are travelling, these towns are abuzz with people, cars, taxis and livestock. The regard for moving vehicles is zero. I can only describe Mthatha as a complete shambles. Broken water mains pipes flooding across the road, detour signs that usher you in one direction with no subsequent signs, the majority of traffic lights not working making the crossing of each intersection a Russian Roullette game. If you talk to people about it they just say “Africa”. I don’t buy that, it does not have to be this way. The drive is spectacular winding up and down the mountains, but the evidence of overgrazing and erosion is depressing

If was a relief to get to Harding and turn off down the stunningly beautiful road  to Port Shepstone, with its indigenous forests and massive trees and the massive pine forests of organised agriculture highlighting the potential Transkei. My view is that without ownership of land in these rural areas of South Africa there is very little hope of these incredibly fertile areas ever reaching their potential. I think as far as agriculture is concerned we need to abolish the Tribal land distribution system. Do we have a politician brave enough to do that?

Natal is so different from the Cape in every way, but besides the obvious thing, I think that what we did find was a much more engrained colonial attitude, quite parochial. The weather did not help our attitude, it went from cold to decidedly chilly, from overcast to stormy.

However, delightful stays with really good people saw us in high spirits as we entered the Hluhluwe Game Reserve, even in a drizzle driving into any  of the reserves really fuels my soul.

There is a definite advantage of being at the bottom end of the budget scale! There is no camping in Hluhluwe and the cheapest huts cost R350 per person. We stayed at Hilltop, which is a truly magnificent Camp. A request for relief for two very OAP’s saw us get a 20% discount! But that wasn’t the point. The point is that the accommodation at the bottom wrung of the ladder has shared ablutions and shared kitchen facilities and the facilities are really good. We were cooking our evening meal when we were joined by a delightful couple who were on honeymoon. They asked us where we were going etc, and we told them where we were going, and mentioned that the motorbike was on its way to Buenos Aires where we would be joining it in January. Where were they From? Buenos Aires! Not only was that a stroke of luck, but Fernandos is a travel agent and he and his wife Natalia spent an hour pouring over maps with us and showing us wonderful pics of place to go, as well as offering us their contact details for when we arrive.

Had we been in the more expensive accommodation with everything included, such chance meeting would not have happened, that is why we travel as we do!

Hluhluwe is wonderful, and the vegetation, birds, animals and scenery is spectacular, well worth the visit.

Being the only campers at the Sand Lodge on the edge of the St Lucia Reserve has more than fuelled our spirits for the unpredictability of the Africa ahead.

I must say finding a Scorpion in the loo roll took me by surprise! Must be more vigilant. There are also some scary looking caterpillars!